Here are four of Moscow’s less famous museums: the staid Gorky Museum, housed in a Moscow moderne mansion dripping with decoration, the futurist Mayakovsky Museum, a shrine to one of the poetic greats of the revolution, the strange little Museum of Water, where you can take a tour of the cleaning and disposal, as well as the history, of the Moscow water supply and the Orlov Museum of Paleontology, where mammoths and dinosaurs await.
A sense of dread seems to infuse the walls of the Gorky Museum. The shadowy moderne mansion where the museum is housed served as a palace-prison from 1931-1936 for a broken Gorky who had sacrificed his own beliefs to save his friends. Gorky lived large segments of his life in exile, both under the Tsarist and then the Communist regime. A staunch believer in free speech and democracy, Gorky shocked the world by returning to the Soviet Union in 1931 at Stalin’s behest, and serving as a shill for the state. Placed under unannounced house arrest in 1934, Gorky died under mysterious circumstances in June of 1936.
The Ryabushinsky Mansion in which the Gorky Museum is housed is an architectural monument in itself, built by Fyodor Shekhtel, with stunning internal and external attention to detail. The mansion is a perfect emblem of turn of the century Russian elegance, and one of the city’s greatest and best-preserved Moderne structures.
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